The Next Postcard

There are basically 2 ways to get to Machu Picchu in the Peruvian Andes: The easy way and the hard way. In the easy way, you take a train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, the town nearest to the ruins. Then there is a short hike (of several hours) to the ruins themselves, where you likely emerge alert and recently showered. In the hard way, you get dropped off by a bus on the Inca Trail, the "traditional" way to access the ruins. You then hike in the Andes for 4 days, setting up camp along the way and pooping in the forest. Thus, when you reach the ruins on day 4, you do not emerge recently showered. In both the easy and hard cases, you are required by law to go with a tour group and guide (or if you're rich, a private guide), and there is a limit to the number of hikers per year who may access the ruins. This is an attempt to minimize the environmental impact of the tourism, which, for a while, was apparently getting pretty bad.

So why am I writing about all of this? Last week, Todd and I booked tickets to Peru for July, courtesy of our credit card airline miles. We will go for 10 days, but the main point of this trip is to see Machu Picchu. And we're going to do it the hard way, which we are hoping is also the more rewarding way. I think hiking the Inca Trail is on those "1000 things to do before you die" lists. Which is really convenient, given that this hike may kill us. Carrying large packs uphill at high altitudes? It sounds like a death wish to me. On day 2 of the hike, there is something called "Dead Woman's Pass." I think it was really nice of somebody to name this pass after me, even though I haven't even gone there yet. Thanks folks!

My previous hiking experience has been fairly tame. It has consisted of Kjerste and I doing day hikes near sea level that ended with hot showers, pizza, drinks, and feelings of deep accomplishment. We are proud urban hikers. Hiking the Inca Trail is going to be a bit of a stretch for me, and I'm sure it will end up being one of the best things I ever did, blah blah blah. Right now, of course, I'm thinking of how rusty my Spanish is and how physically difficult the hike will be.

Thus, booking this trip has led me to some good New Year's resolutions. I had been having difficulty thinking of any, but now that I know I'll be hiking in the Andes, I think getting into mountain goat shape is an important goal. Also, I'll make a point of learning useful Spanish phrases, such as:

"Please do not pick my pocket. There is only lip balm in there."

"Why is there no hot water in this shower?"

"I do not eat dead animals of any kind. Please take the Alpaca away."

"What is that crawling across the wall?"

I'm sure I'll think of even more as time passes.

As a bonus, I understand that you can get coca tea and chew coca leaves as you please in Peru. In fact, the tour outfits all seem to provide coca tea, since it supposedly helps you adjust to the altitude. I'll bet it helps with all kinds of things, except for getting back through US customs.

It looks like this is going to be a very interesting year.